Lake Iseo and Dolomites (South Tyrol)

A magnificent journey mixing the tranquility of the lakes with the grandeur of the mountains! Here is our guide to those four incredible days.

Part I: Two Days of Lakeside Charm on Lake Iseo

Our first two days were all about the peaceful beauty of Lake Iseo and its surroundings.

Day 1: Monte Isola and the Town of Iseo

We checked into the gorgeous Rivalago Hotel in Sulzano, right on the edge of the lake, giving us beautiful views from the moment we arrived.

• Monte Isola by Speedboat: The main highlight of the day was visiting Monte Isola, the largest lake island in Europe. We decided to take a private speedboat across the water, which was a fantastic way to approach the island and feel the fresh air.We also passed by the private owned island of Loreto Once on Monte Isola, where no cars are allowed, we enjoyed the quiet, traditional fishing villages, had a wonderful lunch, and simply walked the quiet streets, feeling completely transported away from the mainland hustle.
• The Town of Iseo: In the late afternoon, we spent time exploring the town of Iseo on the southern end of the lake. We walked the delightful promenade, wandered through the medieval center, and enjoyed a classic Italian gelato as we watched the boats come and go.

Day 2: The Northern Elegance of Lovere

Day two was dedicated to the artistic and historical town of Lovere.

Lovere: We drove north along the coastal road to Lovere, which is often cited as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. We were impressed by the contrast of the mountains plunging into the northern waters of the lake and the elegant architecture of the town center. We spent our morning exploring the Galleria dell’Accademia Tadini, a neoclassical gem, before enjoying lunch with a spectacular view over the water.

Rivalago Relaxation: We spent the final hours back at the Rivalago, enjoying the pool area and the serene atmosphere before preparing for the mountains.

Part II: Two Days of Dolomite Drama in South Tyrol

The change of scenery was dramatic! Our next two days took us deep into the majestic Dolomites, basing ourselves in the stunning Miramonti Hotel.

Day 3: Alpine Lakes, High Passes, and the Rosadira

This was an epic day that saw us crisscrossing some of the most famous sights and high passes of the Dolomites.

• Morning Glory at Lake Braies: We started our day early to capture the famous, emerald-green waters of Lake Braies (Lago di Braies / Pragser Wildsee) while the air was still crisp and the mountains were perfectly reflected in the water.
• Dolomite Drives: From there, we drove through the incredible valleys, passing the town of Dobbiaco (Toblach) before heading toward the high-altitude landscapes. We tackled the spectacular road up to Sella Pass (Passo Sella), which gave us mind-blowing views of the Sassolungo group. We also stopped in Ortisei (Urtijëi), a charming town famous for its woodcarving tradition.
• The Rosadira: Our late afternoon took us past Lake Carezza (Karersee), a small lake famous for its intense colors. Crucially, as the sun began to set, we positioned ourselves perfectly to watch the Rosadira (or Enrosadira)—the spectacular phenomenon where the pale Dolomite peaks, particularly those around the Catinaccio/Rosengarten group, turn a brilliant rose, then fiery red, before fading to purple. It was an unforgettable way to end our day before arriving at our hotel.
• Cortina d’Ampezzo: We capped the day with a drive through the prestigious town of Cortina d’Ampezzo, soaking in its glamorous alpine atmosphere.

Day 4: Valleys, Cities, and a Farewell Loop

Our final day was a comprehensive tour of the region’s most iconic valleys and historical cities.

Merano and Bolzano: We ended the day with visits to Bolzano (Bozen), the provincial capital, where we enjoyed the mix of Italian and Austrian cultures, and finally, Merano (Meran), renowned for its beautiful Art Nouveau architecture and spa heritage, before concluding our epic mountain adventure.

Val di Funes: We started the morning with a deep dive into Val di Funes (Villnöß). The star of this valley is the tiny, picturesque Santa Maddalena Church (Chiesetta di Santa Maddalena), which sits perfectly framed against the towering Geisler/Odle peaks—a truly iconic South Tyrolean image.

Eastern Peaks: We then headed east again, quickly revisiting the peaks near Dobbiaco and Misurina, taking a few last photos of the high mountain environment.

Valley Towns: Our focus then shifted to the history and culture of the valley floor. We spent time in the medieval town of Bressanone (Brixen), enjoying the colorful arcades and the magnificent Duomo.

How we moved from A to B

Lake Iseo and Monte Isola

Lake Iseo belongs to the Lombardy region of Italy and is primarily split between two provinces: Bergamo (on the northern and western shores, where Lovere is located) and Brescia (on the eastern and southern shores, where Iseo and the Rivalago Hotel are located).

• How to Move Between Areas:
  • Within the Lake Area: The best way to travel between the towns of Iseo, Lovere, and the other lakeside villages (like Sulzano) is by car (driving the scenic coastal road) or by ferry.
  • Monte Isola: Access to the island is exclusively via ferry from several mainland towns (we used a speedboat, which is a faster, private option). Cars are forbidden on the island, so once there, we moved around on foot, bicycle, or by using the small local bus service.

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 The Dolomites (South Tyrol)

The majestic Dolomites we visited are located predominantly in the region of Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol (South Tyrol). The area’s bilingual nature (Italian/German) is reflected in the names of the towns (e.g., Bolzano/Bozen).

• Key Geography: The Dolomites are a UNESCO World Heritage site known for their distinctive pale carbonate rock, which gives them their unique appearance. The peaks are divided into several distinct massifs.
• How to Move Between Areas:
  • Between Cities (Bolzano, Bressanone, Merano): These cities are well-connected by an efficient regional train network and major highways (like the A22/Autostrada del Brennero), which is ideal for quick transitions between valley floors.
  • Between Mountain Passes and Lakes (Sella Pass, Lake Braies, Val di Funes): We found that traveling by car was essential for the flexibility to visit the high passes, remote lakes, and scenic valleys (like Val di Funes). The driving itself, using the well-maintained strada statale (state roads) and winding mountain passes, is part of the experience.
  • Within Towns: Once in a town like Ortisei or Bolzano, moving around is best done on foot. For accessing high-altitude hiking areas, South Tyrol has an excellent network of cable cars and gondolas running from the valley towns.

Lake Iseo: Lombardy (Bergamo & Brescia Provinces)

The Lake Iseo area is well-served by airports in Northern Italy and connected by key regional and national infrastructure.¹

Nearest Airports

Airport Name	Code	Proximity to Lake Iseo (Approx.)	Primary Connectivity
Milan Bergamo – Orio al Serio	BGY	~40 km (Closest)	Best choice for budget airlines and the shortest drive/transfer.
Verona – Valerio Catullo	VRN	~95 km	Serves a mix of domestic and European routes.
Milan Linate	LIN	~65 km	Closest to Milan city center, often services major European carriers.
Milan Malpensa	MXP	~105 km	The largest intercontinental hub for the Milan region.

Highways and Train Lines

• Highways: The main connection is the A4 Motorway (E64), which links Turin, Milan, Bergamo, and Venice. You would typically use the exit at Bergamo or Brescia to reach the different sides of the lake.
• Train Lines:
  • The core local line is the regional Trenord service: Brescia – Iseo – Edolo.² This is the line you would use to reach towns like Iseo and Sulzano (where the Rivalago is located) from the major hub of Brescia.³
  • Brescia is a key junction on the Italian national rail network, connecting you to High-Speed (Frecciarossa/Italo) and Intercity services to cities like Milan, Verona, and Venice.

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 The Dolomites: South Tyrol (Trentino-Alto Adige)

The Dolomites are accessed from both Italy and Austria due to their geographical location on the Brenner Pass corridor.

Nearest Airports

Airport Name	Code	Proximity to South Tyrol	Primary Connectivity
Bolzano	BZO	~6 km from Bolzano	Smallest and closest regional airport, mainly for domestic and seasonal international flights.
Innsbruck (Austria)	INN	~120 km from Bolzano	Convenient gateway from Northern Europe, connected directly to the Brenner rail line.
Verona – Valerio Catullo	VRN	~150 km from Bolzano	Excellent connections to Italy’s main train lines and European destinations.
Venice Marco Polo	VCE	~160 km from Cortina	Good for accessing the eastern Dolomites (e.g., Cortina d’Ampezzo, Misurina) via direct shuttle bus.
Treviso – Antonio Canova	TSF	~170 km from Bolzano	Used by low-cost carriers, also offers shuttle services toward the eastern Dolomites.

Highways and Train Lines

• Highways (The Brenner Corridor): The main road artery is the A22 Motorway (Autostrada del Brennero). This vital highway runs North-South through the region, connecting Verona, Trento, Bolzano, and Bressanone before crossing the Brenner Pass into Austria and continuing toward Innsbruck and Munich. The major towns you visited (Bolzano, Bressanone, Ortisei area) are all easily accessible from A22 exits.
• Train Lines (The Brenner Railway): This is one of Europe’s most important railway lines, running parallel to the A22. It is the best way to travel between the major cities:
  • Main Line: Verona – Trento – Bolzano – Bressanone – Fortezza – Brenner Pass – Innsbruck – Munich.
  • Local Lines: Secondary lines branch off from the main route, such as the line from Fortezza toward Brunico and San Candido (near Dobbiaco).

Travel Between…	Recommended Transport	Notes
Lombardy to South Tyrol	Car or Train	The most direct train route involves going from Brescia/Milan to Verona, and then taking the main Brenner line (A22) north to Bolzano/Bressanone. By car, you would primarily use the A4 (to Brescia/Verona) and then the A22 North.
Within the Dolomites	Car (for flexibility) or Local Bus/Cable Car	To visit the passes (Sella) and remote lakes (Braies, Carezza, Misurina), a car is highly recommended. Excellent local bus services and cable cars, however, connect the various towns and hiking areas (especially in Val Gardena/Ortisei).