Introduction
Provence is a geographical region and historical province of southeastern France, which extends from the left bank of the lower Rhône to the west to the Italian border to the east; it is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea to the south. The largest city of the region and its modern-day capital is Marseille.
The Romans made the region the first Roman province beyond the Alps and called it Provincia Romana, which evolved into the present name. Until 1481 it was ruled by the counts of Provence from their capital in Aix-en-Provence, then became a province of the kings of France. While it has been part of France for more than 500 years, it still retains a distinct cultural and linguistic identity, particularly in the interior of the region.
Etymology
The region got its name in Roman times, when it was known as Provincia Romana, simply “the Roman province”. This name eventually was shortened to Provincia (the province), and as the language evolved from Latin to Provençal, so did the pronunciation and spelling.
Ligures and Celts in Provence
Between the 10th and 4th century BC, the Ligures were found in Provence from Massilia as far as modern Liguria. They were of uncertain origin; they may have been the descendants of the indigenous Neolithic peoples. According to Strabo, the Ligurians, living in proximity to numerous Celtic mountain tribes, were a different people (ἑτεροεθνεῖς), but “were similar to the Celts in their modes of life”.
Between the 8th and 5th centuries BC, tribes of Celtic peoples, probably coming from Central Europe, also began moving into Provence. They had weapons made of iron, which allowed them to easily defeat the local tribes, who were still armed with bronze weapons.
Celts and Ligurians spread throughout the area and the Celto-Ligures eventually shared the territory of Provence, each tribe in its own alpine valley or settlement along a river, each with its own king and dynasty. They built hilltop forts and settlements, later given the Latin name oppidum. Today the traces of 165 oppida are found in the Var, and as many as 285 in the Alpes-Maritimes. They worshipped various aspects of nature, establishing sacred woods at Sainte-Baume and Gemenos, and healing springs at Glanum and Vernègues. Later, in the 5th and 4th centuries BC, the different tribes formed confederations; the Voconces in the area from the Isère to the Vaucluse; the Cavares in the Comtat; and the Salyens, from the Rhône river to the Var. The tribes began to trade their local products, iron, silver, alabaster, marble, gold, resin, wax, honey and cheese; with their neighbours, first by trading routes along the Rhône river, and later Etruscan traders visited the coast.
Etruscan amphorae from the 7th and 6th centuries BC have been found in Marseille, Cassis, and in hilltop oppida in the region.
Greeks in Provence
Traders from the island of Rhodes were visiting the coast of Provence in the 7th century BC. Rhodes pottery from that century has been found in Marseille, near Martigues and Istres, and at Mont Garou and Evenos near Toulon. The traders from Rhodes gave their names to the ancient town of Rhodanousia (Ancient Greek: ‘Ροδανουσίαν) (now Trinquetaille, across the Rhône river from Arles), and to the main river of Provence, the Rhodanos, today known as the Rhône.
The first permanent Greek settlement was Massalia, established at modern-day Marseille in about 600 BC by colonists coming from Phocaea (now Foça, on the Aegean coast of Asia Minor). A second wave of colonists arrived in about 540 BC, when Phocaea was destroyed by the Persians.
Massalia became one of the major trading ports of the ancient world. At its height, in the 4th century BC, it had a population of about 6,000 inhabitants, living on about fifty hectares surrounded by a wall. It was governed as an aristocratic republic, by an assembly of the 600 wealthiest citizens. It had a large temple of the cult of Apollo of Delphi on a hilltop overlooking the port, and a temple of the cult of Artemis of Ephesus at the other end of the city. The Drachma coins minted in Massalia were found in all parts of Ligurian-Celtic Gaul. Traders from Massalia ventured inland deep into France on the Rivers Durance and Rhône, and established overland trade routes deep into Gaul, and to Switzerland and Burgundy, and as far north as the Baltic Sea. They exported their own products; local wine, salted pork and fish, aromatic and medicinal plants, coral and cork.
The Massalians also established a series of small colonies and trading posts along the coast; which later became towns; they founded Citharista (La Ciotat); Tauroeis (Le Brusc); Olbia (near Hyères); Pergantion (Breganson); Caccabaria (Cavalaire); Athenopolis (Saint-Tropez); Antipolis (Antibes); Nikaia (Nice), and Monoicos (Monaco). They established inland towns at Glanum (Saint-Remy) and Mastrabala (Saint-Blaise).
The most famous citizen of Massalia was the mathematician, astronomer and navigator Pytheas. Pytheas made mathematical instruments which allowed him to establish almost exactly the latitude of Marseille, and he was the first scientist to observe that the tides were connected with the phases of the moon. Between 330 and 320 BC he organised an expedition by ship into the Atlantic and as far north as England, and to visit Iceland, Shetland, and Norway. He was the first scientist to describe drift ice and the midnight sun. Though he hoped to establish a sea trading route for tin from Cornwall, his trip was not a commercial success, and it was not repeated. The Massalians found it cheaper and simpler to trade with Northern Europe over land routes.
Roman Provence (2nd century BC to 5th century AD)
In the 2nd century BC the people of Massalia appealed to Rome for help against the Ligures. Roman legions entered Provence three times; first in 181 BC the Romans suppressed Ligurian uprisings near Genoa; in 154 BC the Roman Consul Optimus defeated the Oxybii and the Deciates, who were attacking Antibes; and in 125 BC, the Romans put down an uprising of a confederation of Celtic tribes.[17] After this battle, the Romans decided to establish permanent settlements in Provence. In 122 BC, next to the Celtic town of Entremont, the Romans built a new town, Aquae Sextiae, later called Aix-en-Provence. In 118 BC they founded Narbo (Narbonne).
The Roman general Gaius Marius crushed the last serious resistance in 102 BC by defeating the Cimbri and the Teutons. He then began building roads to facilitate troop movements and commerce between Rome, Spain and Northern Europe; one from the coast inland to Apt and Tarascon, and the other along the coast from Italy to Spain, passing through Fréjus and Aix-en-Provence.
In 49 BC, Massalia had the misfortune to choose the wrong side in the power struggle between Pompey and Julius Caesar. Pompey was defeated, and Massalia lost its territories and political influence. Roman veterans, in the meantime, populated two new towns, Arles and Fréjus, at the sites of older Greek settlements.
In 8 BC the Emperor Augustus built a triumphal monument at La Turbie to commemorate the pacification of the region, and he began to Romanize Provence politically and culturally. Roman engineers and architects built monuments, theatres, baths, villas, fora, arenas and aqueducts, many of which still exist. (See Architecture of Provence.) Roman towns were built at Cavaillon; Orange; Arles; Fréjus; Glanum (outside Saint-Rémy-de-Provence); Carpentras; Vaison-la-Romaine; Nîmes; Vernègues; Saint-Chamas and Cimiez (above Nice). The Roman province, which was called Gallia Narbonensis, for its capital, Narbo (modern Narbonne), extended from Italy to Spain, from the Alps to the Pyrenees.
The Pax Romana in Provence lasted until the middle of the 3rd century. Germanic tribes invaded Provence in 257 and 275. At the beginning the 4th century, the court of Roman Emperor Constantine (ca. 272–337) was forced to take refuge in Arles. By the end of the 5th century, Roman power in Provence had vanished, and an age of invasions, wars, and chaos began.
Arrival of Christianity (3rd–6th centuries)
There are many legends about the earliest Christians in Provence, but they are difficult to verify. It is documented that there were organised churches and bishops in the Roman towns of Provence as early as the 3rd and 4th centuries; in Arles in 254; Marseille in 314; Orange, Vaison and Apt in 314; Cavaillon, Digne, Embrun, Gap, and Fréjus at the end of the 4th century; Aix-en-Provence in 408; Carpentras, Avignon, Riez, Cimiez (today part of Nice) and Vence in 439; Antibes in 442; Toulon in 451; Senez in 406, Saint-Paul-Trois-Châteaux in 517; and Glandèves in 541.
The oldest Christian structure still surviving in Provence is the baptistery of the Fréjus Cathedral, dating from the 5th century. At about the same time, the first two monasteries in Provence were founded: Lérins Abbey, on the island of Saint-Honorat near Cannes, and Abbey of St Victor in Marseille.
In the 1940s, Provence underwent a cultural renewal, with the founding of the Avignon Festival of theatre (1947), the reopening of the Cannes Film Festival (begun in 1939), and many other major events. With the building of new highways, particularly the Paris Marseille autoroute which opened in 1970, Provence became destination for mass tourism from all over Europe. Many Europeans, particularly from Britain, bought summer houses in Provence. The arrival of the TGV high-speed trains shortened the trip from Paris to Marseille to less than four hours.
Marseilles
Marseille or Marseilles (French: Marseille; Provençal Occitan: Marselha; is a city in southern France.
Founded c. 600 BC by Greek settlers from Phocaea, Marseille is the oldest city in France, as well as one of Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited settlements. It was known to the ancient Greeks as Massalia (Greek: Μασσαλία, romanized: Massalía) and to Romans as Massilia. Marseille has been a trading port since ancient times. In particular, it experienced a considerable commercial boom during the colonial period and especially during the 19th century, becoming a prosperous industrial and trading city. Nowadays the Old Port still lies at the heart of the city, where the manufacture of Marseille soap began some six centuries ago. Overlooking the port is the Basilica of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde or “Bonne-mère” for the people of Marseille, a Romano-Byzantine church and the symbol of the city. Inherited from this past, the Grand Port Maritime de Marseille (GPMM) and the maritime economy are major poles of regional and national activity and Marseille remains the first French port, the second Mediterranean port and the fifth European port. Since its origins, Marseille’s openness to the Mediterranean Sea has made it a cosmopolitan city marked by cultural and economic exchanges with Southern Europe, the Middle East, North Africa and Asia. In Europe, the city has the third largest Jewish community after London and Paris.we stayed at the nhow hotel at the beach where part of the Olympics 2004 sailing contest was held.at that time the whole area was undergoing a huge Lifting.
The Old Port ,the Notre Dame de la Garde the Old Town the Docks multipurpose Store and the magnificent MuCEM (the Museum of Civilisations of Europe and the Mediterranean) are must visit spots in Marseilles
Valensole
Set on its plateau in a kaleidoscopic swirl of lavender blue and wheaten gold, Valensole is a picturesque town on the northern edge of the Verdon Regional Nature Park.
With 300 days of sunshine a year, Valensole is true to its name: it comes from the Latin Vallis and solis and means valley of the sun.
The medieval village is built like an amphitheatre on the side of a hill overlooking a small river valley. The streets and alleys snake their way up to the 11th century St Blaise church with its immense bell tower at the top. The church’s façade is in a Provençal Romanesque style.
the Plateau of Valensole is famous for its lavender and truffles. Covering approximately 800km2, this plateau is the biggest area in France devoted to growing lavender and the blue, violet and purple-coloured fields stretch as far as the eye can see. The blooming period from mid-June to mid-July is an explosion of colours and the inebriating scent fills the exceptionally pure air of the region.
The best time to visit? June and July, when the Plateau de Valensole turns blue for the lavender fields. It’s a show – and a fragrance – not to be missed. Indeed, the plateau is transformed into a sea of blue flowers undulating in the wind, offering an unparalleled visual and olfactory spectacle.
The Plateau de Valensole is more than just a place, it’s an experience.
Les Baux-de-Provence
Another Highlight of the Provence is the sleepy medieval Village of Le Baux de Provence. Les Baux-de-Provence commonly referred to simply as Les Baux, is a rural commune in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region in Southern France.
It is located in the Alpilles mountains, northeast of Arles, atop a rocky outcrop that is crowned with a ruined castle overlooking the plains to the south. From the village name the word bauxite was coined for aluminium
Renamed after the historical province of Provence, it is a member of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France (The Most Beautiful Villages of France) Association and has over 1.5 million visitors per year although it has only about 20 residents in the upper part of the commune and 315 (as of 2020) for the whole commune.
Avignon
Avignon is on the left bank of the Rhône river, a few kilometres above its confluence with the Durance, about 580 km south-east of Paris and 85 km north-north-west of Marseille.
Avignon has a very large number of sites and buildings that are registered as historical monuments
In the part of the city within the walls the buildings are old but in most areas they have been restored or reconstructed (such as the post office and the Lycée Frédéric Mistral).] The buildings along the main street, Rue de la République, date from the Second Empire (1852–70) with Haussmann façades and amenities around Place de l’Horloge (the central square), the neoclassical city hall, and the theatre district.
The city walls of Avignon
Avignon is full of history and full of life.
Capital of the Vaucluse and the Côtes du Rhône, seat of the popes and city of art and culture, theatre, cinema, museums, big stores and little shops, Avignon is a small city that has everything .
From medieval streets and houses to private mansions from the Renaissance, passing through all its old and enticing squares, some no bigger than a tiny lane… And the diverse dining opportunities, ranging from family-run restaurants, good and inexpensive to some of the greatest Michelin-starred chefs.
The historic city centre, the Popes’ Palace, all the episcopal buildings and the Saint Bénézet Bridge are listed as world heritage sites by UNESCO.
Here, you find the City Hall built between 1845 and 1851 over a former cardinal’s palace of which it has kept the old fortified tower, transformed into a belfry in the 15th century with clock and Jacquemart. Next to it, the municipal theatre, also from the 19th century, houses the Avignon opera and, all the way at the top, the delightful Belle Époque style carrousel still turns.
Originally the forum of Avenio, the city’s name under the Romans in the 1st century BC, the Place de l’Horloge is still the “centre” of Avignon. A meeting place, bordered by cafés and restaurants, the square is always bustling. Just like the Place du Palais higher up, a vast esplanade where you could spend the day just watching all the street performers in summer.
And as its name implies, here stands the formidable Popes’ Palace, emblem of the city and awe-inspiring monument to the importance of Avignon in the Christian world of the Middle Ages.
Built in the 1300s, mainly by two popes – the austere Benedict XII and his successor, the much less ascetic Clement VI, – the palace would become the biggest gothic edifice in all of Europe.
St Remy de Provence
Few places match the perfection of St-Rémy-de-Provence.
St-Rémy-de-Provence is a dream come true. Everything is clean, with pristine stones and render, and simply acres of pastel shutters. It is the perfect marriage of an understated French aesthetic and gorgeous boutiques, shops, bistros, and cafes.
As is often the case with rural villages, there is a predominant design aesthetic that is apparent across a region or even just a village. St Rémy has a small and divine range of chalky shades that works deliciously against the blonde, perfectly-maintained stone façades, and paving.
St Rémy is elegant and understated, and surprisingly quiet in the backstreets.
The ruins of the Roman city of Glanum, including a triumphal arch, can still be seen on the southern outskirts of the city.
The Saint-Paul Asylum in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is where Vincent van Gogh was a patient, from May 1889 to May 1890, and where he painted some of his most memorable works, including The Starry Night which features the town. The site is now named the Clinique Van Gogh for him.
Roman remains of Glanum
Glanum is a quite remarkable site, offering a fascinating glimpse of Roman life. 1km south of St Remy on the road to Les Baux, just on the side of the road, unprotected and freely accessible, you come across perhaps the best preserved Roman cenotaph in the world, as well as a triumphal arch celebrating Caesar’s victory over the Gauls
A LINK TO VAN GOGH
As a footnote to link two famous chapters in St Remy’s history, in 1889 Vincent van Gogh lived at the sanitarium of St Remy after cutting his ear off – the sanitarium was part of a monastery very close to Glanum, St-Paul-de-Mausole. One of the masterpieces he painted at that time was “Olive Trees with the Alpilles in the Background”. Unbeknown to him, as it had not yet been excavated, Glanum lay buried directly beneath the olive trees he was painting.
One of the most lovely aspects of Saint-Remy-de-Provence lies in its deep connection to the legendary artist Vincent Van Gogh. The village served as a wellspring of inspiration for some of his most photoscelebrated works. As you stroll through the cobbled streets and vibrant market squares, it’s easy to see why Van Gogh was captivated by the Provençal charm. The picturesque landscapes, bathed in the golden glow of the Mediterranean sun, still attracts artists and enthusiasts alike to witness the very scenes that fuelled Van Gogh’s creative genius.
Arles
It begins around 550 BC when the Phocaeans of Marseille founded the trading counter of Théliné on the present-day site of Arles.
In the 4th century, Théliné became ARELATE (ΑΡΕΛΑΤΗ in greek) (from “ar”: rocky knoll, or “are”: near, and “lath”: marsh). Between 125 and 121 BC, the “Provincia” was conquered by Rome. Taking advantage of its situation as a crossroads, Arles prospered under the Roman Empire and became an important trade centre. The city was called at the time “Colonia Julia Paterna Arelate”.
The economy created during the Roman Era would last until the modern age.
In the Middle Ages, big farms saw the day and gave birth to a rich landowning aristocracy. Across the countryside, big and beautiful “mas” were built grouping together houses and farm buildings. The commune of Arles thus became dotted with villages and hamlets.
Arles, city of art and history, has been listed as a World Heritage Site by Unesco since 1981. These are the Roman Amphitheatre (today the arena), the Antique Theatre, the Cryptoportiques, the Roman thermal baths of Constantin, the remains of the Roman circus, the Saint-Trophime cloisters and gate and the Alyscamps, to cite just the most important.
If the old historic centre of Arles is one of the main protected sectors, abounding in architectural treasures, the 20th century gave birth to some important edifices such as the Joseph Imbert Hospital, designed by the architect Paul Nelson and the Departmental Museum of Ancient Arles, conceived by Henri Ciriani and installed in a modern and innovative building on the banks of the Rhône.
The Espace Van Gogh, the former hospital and hospice restored in 1986, today houses the multimedia library, the city archives, the Collège International des Traducteurs Littéraires (association for the promotion of literary translations), a branch of the university, an exhibition space as well as many shops and businesses.
The building housing Supinfocom, the internationally renowned school for 3D-2D animation, is one of the premier architectural achievements of the 19th century. Built in the park of the former SNCF railway workshops, tt constitutes an important part of the university.
In addition to its heritage, the city’s customs, language and traditional festivals make Arles the capital of Provençal culture. You may come across a woman in traditional costume in the streets during one of the many festivals organized by the city. A touristic city par excellence, many festivities take place here throughout the year
Van Gogh in Arles
Vincent lived in Arles in the South of France for more than a year. He experienced great productivity there before suffering a mental breakdown.
Vincent moved to Arles on 20 February 1888. After two years in Paris, he was tired of the bustle and demands of city life and longed for the sunshine and vibrant colours of the south. Upon arrival in Arles, Vincent took a room at the hotel-restaurant Carrel, and later, one at Café de la Gare. In early September, he settled into the Yellow House, which he had begun using as a studio on 1 May.
Vincent was highly productive during this period and made numerous paintings and drawings in and around Arles. He developed an expressive, individual painting style characterised by bold colours and dynamic brushstrokes. In Arles, he met the artists Eugène Boch, Dodge MacKnight and Christian Mourier-Petersen and befriended Joseph Roulin, the postal official at the train station. The artist Paul Gauguin came to join him in October, and they worked together in Arles for two months.
In late December, Vincent suffered a psychosis during which he cut off part of his ear and handed it to a prostitute. Gauguin returned to Paris soon afterward. Vincent was admitted to hospital and discharged on 7 January. In late January and February, however, he suffered two more attacks and he returned to hospital for a longer stay. On 8 May 1889, Vincent left Arles to be voluntarily committed to a psychiatric institution in Saint-Rémy de Provence.
Aix en Provence
Located north of Marseille in the foothills of the Alps, Aix may not have any blockbuster sights, but its old center offers a postcard-worthy square around every corner. It’s famous for its outdoor markets and handsome pedestrian lanes, as well as its cultivated, bon vivant residents. Nowhere else in France is l’art de vivre (the art of living) so stylishly displayed.
The main boulevard, Cours Mirabeau, is designed for the rich and famous to strut their fancy stuff. This “Champs-Elysées of Provence,” lined with 17th- and 18th-century mansions It survives much as it was: narrow for traffic and very wide for pedestrians who would promenade under their elegant mansions. To this day, Cours Mirabeau remains the place for trendiness.
One of the best places to take it all in is Les Deux Garçons café. It was once frequented by hometown artist Paul Cézanne, and remains the top hangout on the boulevard. Then cross Cours Mirabeau and head for Aix’s old town, where inviting pedestrian streets hum with activity. Travelers who plan well enjoy the most vivid experience: Aix’s farmers market is a classic Provençal scene — rustic farmers selling fresh produce under the shade of graceful plane trees. Place Richelme hosts a lively market, as it has since the 1300s. The cafés at the end of the square are ideal for savoring the market ambience: Pause for a drink at one or get a fresh-baked snack at a local boulangerie.
Aix has a timeless, quality. . For a tourist, it’s happily free of any obligatory turnstiles. It’s just a wealthy town filled with people — most of whom, it seems, know how to live well and look good. Once you surrender to its charms, you may never want to leave.
Aix Region
Continue to explore the region around Aix-en-Provence. Set off along the pathways of History and discover monuments, castles, chapels, shrines and the treasures.
Along the way, you’ll come across gourmet restaurants, festivities for local produce, five AOC vineyards, Provencal specialities and oil mills.
You’ll love the adorable hilltop villages where studios of artists and craftsmen lie tucked away, not to mention the Cézanne trail and its magnificent views, and the impressive scenery of the great Sainte-Victoire Mountain.
Cassis
This small fishing town is colorful, quaint and next to one of the most extraordinary landscapes .the dramatic limestone inlets that make up the Calanques between Cassis and Marseille.
Unlike other small towns along the French Riviera, Cassis is relatively easy to get to! Located next to Marseille, Cassis can be easily accessed via train, bus or a taxi.
Explore the town center
Cassis is a small town, so it is easy to walk around and explore the charm. All of the streets are picture-perfect and have that colorful French Riviera vibe!
One of the most picturesque streets of the old town is at Rue Frédéric Mistral. This has a beautiful view of the church bell tower, cobble stone streets and blooming flowers.
For such a small coastal town, Cassis is full of local shops and cafés.
Go to the beach
There are a few different public beaches in Cassis to soak up the sun and Mediterranean Sea. The Plage de la Grand Mer is the closest to town and by far the largest and most popular. It has stunning views of the cliffs in the distance and the beach is a mixture of sand and gravel.
Some other beaches to check out are: Plage de Corton (a small beach in a rocky cove) and the Plage Bleu (a beach further out on one of the inlets that leads to the Calanques)
The marina is the central feature of Cassis, filled with small fishing boats and sail boats surrounded by the colorful fishing village and the towering cliffs in the distance
Cassis and Calanques
A Calanque is a unique kind of geological formation made of limestone. They are big rocky coves forming a steep and narrow valley inland and are mostly found around the Mediterranean sea. Here, the Calanques National Park is a protected and highly regulated area, stretching over 20 km from Marseille to Cassis, with 26 Calanques of various sizes (25 in Marseille and 1 in Cassis). Some are easily accessible and others are a lot less, but regardless, the Calanques are an absolute must-see when you visit Marseille!
the three famous calanques that are closest to Cassis: Calanque de Port Miou, Calanque de Port Pin and Calanque d’en Vau.
